Cycling in Pondicherry

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There are certain memories in life which stay with you vivid and clear. You remember even the smallest details of the memory as distinctly as if it just happened. Oxford, UK was one such memory. I was hardly eleven at that time, but it still made an enormous impact. The majestic stone buildings with ivy climbing on to the walls, the mild chill in the air, people casually walking into cafes with satchels slung on their backs, neat tidy rows of houses which looked similar to each other,just as though they had stepped off the rack of a toy store, cobbled roads, and CYCLISTS.

In India, the only people whom I knew cycled were us school kids, and people who could not afford a better means of transport! That cycling would be a preferred vehicle of choice for professors, students who actually owned cars to ferry them back to their hometown and even really old people, was something I could not fathom.The way they locked their cycles with chains to the parking place oh so casually impressed me. And to know that they called their cycles “bikes”,a word, which in India meant a motor cycle, made it sound ever so cool!

We generally outgrow most of the fetishes of our childhood as we mature, or so I believe. My love for cycling was something which stubbornly but secretly stuck on. Secretly because, generally and practically speaking in most towns of cities in India, we do not encounter doctors or bank managers or teachers or chartered accountants whiz away on their cycles for work. I am not saying this as a snob. It is just reality. And staying right across from the place where I work takes away from me, the freedom to rebel against this cliche!  On occasion, I have also had his fear of being branded as a “weird” shrink(I do worry about my practice, you see) if I did go against the norm! I also do not live in a place like Bengaluru, where cycling in super stylish cycling gear complete with a helmet and radium piping, would be considered cool. I would be stared at on the road, as if I were a two headed alien who had suddenly landed on this earth!

Hence, sadly,my love for the bicycle remained in the closet for long into my adulthood. I would vow to myself that, when I went to Amsterdam, I would cycle to my hearts content( maybe, going to Amsterdam would be so expensive that I could only afford to cycle across!).

Till, I went to Pondicherry. It was surprising to see cycling still existed as a prominent means of transport for both the young and the old, saree wearing aunty to an expat!

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Even more exited to hear of a cycling tour of Pondicherry, offered by Sita Cultural center which is a one stop shop for everything you want to do.From scuba diving to bollywood dancing to cooking lessons, this hole in the wall, blue, building which I failed to find despite whizzing by it thrice, is a hub for all adventure.

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And so my adventure started at 6 in the morning with my guide Manisha and a cycle.

To start the day cycling into the small gullies of Pondicherry was not on my agenda when I went, but I really ended up enjoying my sojourn. Pondicherry is divided into a tamil quarter, a french quarter and a muslim quarter. I have no idea what the last quarter of the whole comprises of!Maybe the christian quarter(just to round off the national integration part).

And this is what I saw

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Large houses built in Chettinad style with embroidery like wooden  panels adorning them. These were houses of Soldas, the Muslim tamils who worked in the Portugese army. They were given a dual citizenship, based on which most of the descendants are now staying in Europe, and come only in the month of July for trading in spice. Rest of the time, the houses are restored and maintained as they were hundreds of years ago!

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That the buildings in Pondicherry are colour coded. For example, the Aurobindo institutes are grey in color, the Government buildings are yellow, the French buildings are orange and the like.

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For the film buffs,this is the house where the crew of “The life of Pi” stayed during the shoot.

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An artist’s depiction of how to make the best of waste! Made out of plastic bottles he found in the trash.He also apparently made a sculpture of a huge boat with people depicting how the city was saved during the tsunami.

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Courtyards with a beautiful mix of French style architecture and the very Indian rangoli blending smoothly with each other

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Temples on the roadside with fierce looking Goddesses, not yet open for the day’s prayers

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The beautiful sunrise, yet again.

Huge cathedrals, mosques and temples residing in harmony, with devotees quietly going about their business.

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A bakery with fresh morning produce.

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Fisherman's wharf.

I enjoyed myself so much, that ending the ride was saddening. But as the saying goes, "When you want something badly enough, the universe conspires to give it to you”, I discovered a cycling club back home.So despite the lack of coffee shops, designer gear and Victorian buildings,now, every weekend I relive the memories of my childhood, cycling early in the morning with the wind gushing on my face and drinking tea from the dhaba on the roadside. Fair enough deal, if I could say so!

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9 thoughts on “Cycling in Pondicherry

  1. Jean November 28, 2015 / 2:27 pm

    Some lovely buildings. By the way, the West should see more photos of Indian women cycling. We’re not getting the right impression of Indian women and sports/exercise. So fill your blog with such photos. 🙂

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  2. Mabel Kwong May 7, 2016 / 9:38 am

    I came from Jean’s blog, Preethi. Good on your for cycling because you like it and because you want to. It looks like Pondicherry is leading the way for cycling in India and what a lovely town it is to cycle around. It makes sense to cycle early in the morning there because, if I’m guessing, it can get really hot later in the day 😀

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    • preethishanbhag May 7, 2016 / 4:15 pm

      Hi Mabel,
      Thanks for stopping by. Yes,pondicherry is a beautiful town to cycle in. And early mornings are both practical and beautiful. It is a great feeling to see the world wake up:)

      Liked by 1 person

  3. livelytwist May 7, 2016 / 10:59 pm

    Lovely photos. I enjoyed taking a tour of the city with you. On Jean’s blog you mentioned that there aren’t designated cycling paths. Am I right in thinking that this isn’t an issue for cyclists especially so early in the morning?

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    • preethishanbhag May 9, 2016 / 4:14 am

      Thank you. Yes, there are’nt designated cycling paths almost anywhere in India! But we are used to the somewhat erratic traffic and do not much find it a bother!We just make sure we cycle really carefully and wear clothing that makes us more visible to anyone around.

      Liked by 1 person

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